Its a long Hue to Tipperary

Everyone knows that travelling itself often long and arduous. Sleeper buses are supposed to make this process a mite easier. The journey from Vientienne, Laos to Hue (pronounced 'way'), Vietnam was not. I won't harp on about the Brobdingnagian nature of being left alone at a border amongst uncommunicative people – but suffice to say that after 20hrs on a bus (without a toilet), I stepped somewhat etiolated, sleepy and dirty on to Hue's wet pavement. Here is a tip, when you are tired and cranky, take a motorscooter trip in the cold rain to your hotel – it will wake you up for sure.

Hue is a UNESCO world heratige site and the main attraction here is the citadel and the citadel-within-the-citadel that dominates the north side of bank. Because of the rain Hue city didn't hold much beauty for me (it was quite bleak and particularly cold) and the citadel is an imposing structure, with little to see inside. No wonder the North Vietnam troops were able to take this city so easily, the South didn't want it either. Actually that is a bit harsh. If you take the time to wander aimlessly around the old city, Hue does have a few hidden charms to make it interesting enough for travelers. For example if you pay the $6 for a tour of the tombs and pagodas that surround Hue, there are some more interesting sites to capture ones attention. 

Irregardless of whether you listen to the guide natter on about the 2^nd, 3^rd and 12^th emperor and their superstitions, Vietnamese tombs (particularly in Hue) inevitably have picturesque gardens replete with bonsai, flowery incriptions and in the case of Tu Doc – a large reflective lake to complete the experience. Overall, I liked Hue as my first impression of Vietnam and it is worth a visit, but only for 2 days.

Inside a Tomb.

Actually, being my first stop in Vietnam I was expecting great things of the cuisine. One of their emperors (I can't remember which) enforced culinary variation in everyday household by forcing people to create a new dish every day. This variation and experimentation was purported to be an attraction of Hue but I found little evidence of this, the food is actually quite bland (although reasonably cheap). However the accommodation, in stark constrast to Laos, is very reasonable. You trade in getting budget rooms in guest-houses (less than $6 per night) for $10/12 per night hotels complete with a bath, fridge and t.v.