The train line that runs from Kandy through the hill country is one of most beautiful ways to travel in the world. I can say that having seen my fair share of the world. As the air gets colder you pass through crevices cut in the undulating hills, tunnels carved out of mountains covered in pine forests, through kms of tea plantations and when you get to the top of the range you are bathed in clouds that slowly devour the front of the train and the surrounding countryside. David and I enjoyed 6hrs of this picturesque trip before getting off in Banderawella. This town promised beautiful hikes and cooking classes (David's passion), however lonely planet once again proved to be outdated. There was nothing there, and after a night's rest we hitched our bags and moved on to Haputale (20 mins away). 
Haputale is situated at the highest point in Sri Lanka and the views from our hotel were unrivaled. Before 10 each morning we could see for hundreds of kms down the mountainside and across the country almost to the beach. After 10, the clouds rolled in and Haputale becomes a tiny village in the sky. Our first day there, we took a bus down the mountain to the second highest waterfall in Sri Lanka. After an hour's ride with all manner of life (chickens, children and staring men) we arrived and were impressed by the sheer drop of this waterfall. It looks like the mountain is crying and the tears turn in to mist before hitting the rock pools at the bottom. We spent an excellent afternoon trying in vain to take pictures of the monkeys and the hundreds of flitty butterflies that surround you in the pools. I even had my first experience with natural feet-eating-fish (the likes of which you will find for 200Baht in Thailand).
On the second day here, we decided to hike through the mountain roads and tea plantations only to encounter more friendly smiling Sri Lankans who love cricket, Ricky Ponting and who giggle when they say hello (even more when we answer). One lovely man even directed us on a narrow path through the plantations (that were by now covered in clouds) and invited us in for tea at his guest house. Thouroughly impressed by this hamlet in the heavens we packed up again the next day and bussed it (most painfully as the roads are too narrow and only half finished) to Nuwara Eliya to meet David's cousin Vicky and her friends.
Nuwara Eliya is a perfect example of the English presence in Sri Lanka. There are beautifully constructed old homes that are right out of a Jane Austin or Charlotte Bronte novel. The town is surrounded by pine forests, botanical gardens, golfing greens and a tranquil lake on the east side. Unfortunately there is precious little to do here for people on a budget, except enjoy my first salad and red meat in 2 weeks. We managed to find Vicky and it was great to be around first time travellers again (they are surprised and excited by everything). We shared a massive chocolate cake, some beers and unfortunately had to say goodbye after only one day together. As you will read in my next post, we did try to meet them again on the south coast in Tangalla.
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